A windy trip to Shaftoe bouldering venue

By Tiso Glasgow Outdoor Experience on 14 Mar 12 at 08:34


Andy, of Tiso Glasgow Outdoor Experience, recently headed to the bouldering venue, Shaftoe in Northumberland. Here he writes about his first experience at the location.


There were six of us, who met up at Neb Boulder where we first messed around warming up while trying to solve some problems. Shaftoe has hundreds of bouldering problems. Some were tricky but were completed within a couple tries, while others will require a return trip to complete.

Neb Roof Font 6c

After playing on Neb Boulder, which was relatively sheltered from the wind (compared to the rest of the area), we walked up to the main buttress, which holds a very popular problem called Timmy Tip Toes Font 7a+.

Timmy Tip Toes F7a+

Timmy Tip Toes F7a+

Timmy was a great problem to work on. It starts under the roof on a flake and comes out to where my buddy was pointing. Then the route climbs the arete above. With the winds, the problem was both frustrating and scary. But that just adds to the fun!

We visited a number of other outcrops, such as the Roadside Boulder where we played on Slim Shady F7a. This started on a couple side pulls and heel hooks, slapping up to a surprisingly positive sloper then moving right onto some small crimps then a big move up to a flake. Lots of fun on this one!

Test-climb for Scarpa Instinct Slippers

Putting the Instinct Slippers' heel to the test

Putting the Instinct Slippers' heel to the test

This trip also gave me a chance to test out my Scarpa Instinct Slippers, which until Shaftoe, I had only used indoors. I particularly like the heel, as at first I thought they felt a bit baggy underneath but surprisingly fit very well and don’t pull off! The toes are very sensitive in that I could feel exactly what I was standing on and could make sure I had the pressure focused in the right place to get the maximum push.

Where do you plan to go bouldering this year? Please do leave us a comment.

  • ricky

    Hi guys,

    I would like to go climbing at the fontonbleuu this year. Nice article, Keep em coming 😀